History of the Bistro

The origins of the word "bistro" are swathed in etymological mystery and urban legend. The favorite story among linguists and historians is that the term originated during the Russian occupation of Paris in 1815. Hungry Russian soldiers, it is said, would yell "Bystra!," or "Hurry!" to their French hosts, and this Russian term was thus adopted for the small eateries where one could obtain a quick meal and a drink.

Expert Opinions

But not everyone is convinced of the truth of the Russian story. Larousse Gastronomique, the world's ultimate culinary encyclopedia, states that the word bistro did not appear in the French language until 1884, nearly seventy years after the Russians had left: There also appears to be a relationship with the word bistreau, which in the dialect of western France describes a cowherd, and by extension, a jolly fellow an apt description of the innkeeper. The most likely origin is doubtless an abbreviation of the word bistrouille, a French slang word for a mixture of coffee and cheap brandy once served at such places.

A Proper Bistro

Whatever its origins, the word bistro has come to denote a very particular type of culinary experience. A traditional bistro is an intimate and inexpensive restaurant with small tables next to a street or beach. A classic bistro would be family owned and feature recipes from a mother or aunt. Wine would be served, along with simple dishes such as baguettes, seafood, and meat. A proper bistro's atmosphere is familiar and light-hearted, a place for quick and informal chats and easy laughter with good friends.

Such a meaning is no longer universal, according to the Oxford Companion to Food: "The use of the term [bistro]... had towards the end of the 20th century begun to be annexed by more pretentious premises." Today, even Planet Hollywood is referred to as a bistro.

A Living Tradition

But in some parts of the world, the original ethos of the bistro lives on. In Paris, there are still hundreds of bistros where one can sit at the chairs and tables that give bistro sets their name and enjoy a baguette and a glass of wine. Should you ever wish to explore the city that birthed the bistro, the book Paris by Bistro: A Guide to Eating Well by Christine and Dennis Graf would make an excellent companion.